Pattern drafting



Dec. 28 1926.

J. H. sPALDlNG PATTERN DRAFTING Filed March 23, 1926 Patented Dec. 28,1926.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE..

J'OI-IN HENRY SPALDING, OF REGINA, SASKATCHEW'AN, CANADA.

PATTERN DRAWING.

Application filed March 23, 1926'.

(2) The system. enables all the controllingrv points of contact to befixed without error.

The system replaces the usual strap measure by ay height line whichbrings together in the gorge contact lines that are necessarilyseparated in other systems of cutting, thereby automatically preventingthose errors from` arising which heretofore have caused the problem ofthe straight and crooked shoulder.

(il) The system makes short measurements easy of application.

(5) The system provides for over-erect and stooping figures when appliedon its sweep, having regard vfor variations in height.

(6) The system provides. mathematically for variations in height of theperson to be fitted, while retaining accurate body conformation, andwhen applied on itsy sweep automatically provides for stooped andovererect figures.

(7) The system includes in the drafting 1li'. correct allowances formake-up (excepting the seat measurement.)

(8) In addition to the foregoing' advantages the system` comprises adouble-draft and is thereby rendered self-balancing and self proving.

@ther features and advantages of my invention will hereinafter appear.

The drawing is a representation in plan of the lines comprisingl thedraft comprebending my improved system.

IVith the drafting systems at present in vogue it is difficult if notimpossiblel to accurately apply the short measurements taken f-rom thelive gure, mainly because in. said systems the gorge is divided from thenape,

leavingthecutter without a basic point from which to work. Whereas undermy new drafting system I include in the draft the complete orge. Thisenables me to establish ay height line, in place of the usual strapSerial No. 96,725.

measure, that extends from the centre of the construction line to thenape.

It is by means of this height line, so located,` tha-t I am able to varythe height of t-he draft, without interfering with other measurements.

Then in addi-tion` to the height line I provide for a sweep whichextends in an arc drawn from t-he front centre on the construction lineto the height line, being produced from a pivotal centre at theintersection of the centre back line and construction line. This sweepis modified by t-he extent of the' height line according to the heightmeasure desired.

The characteristic features of the draft which in part have thus farbeen referred to, are in my improved system duplicated in an angularlydisposed adjunct to the original draft, as will be made to appear in thefollowing description, theI purpose of the duplication, or double draftbeing'that one draft may be checked or verified by the other.

Now referring to the drawing, it will be noted that I have establishedthree lines in the form of an approximately equal sided triangle, havingthe base line that extends horizontally from O to *l and the upwardlyconverging lines that extend respectively from O to i* and from *l to*if designated breast line l and breast line 2 respectively.

Construction line O-*l is the breast measure. The extension *l to *2represents Q1/5c added for make up. *3 on line O-*Q isthe midpointbetween O-iQ. Line O-*4 is a vertical duplication of line O-I2, andserves to enable meto locate point A on the sweep which emanates from*2, using O as the pivot, the point A forming the napey of the neck.

Point A is located by using a right angle square and by having the edgeof one blade lying upon the point *4 andthe edge of the other bladelying upon the point *3.

Having now established the nape of the neck at A, straight lines areldrawn from A respectively toy *3 and *41, t-hese lines each being bothfront height lines and back centre lines inthe double system. Care isnecessary in adjusting the square accurately as otherwise the balance ofthe draft would be astray.

Parallel with the front vheight line extendedr from A-*S-` is a checkline that extendsl from B to C on the construction line 'jill OWN oneinch from said front height line. Also extended between the constructionline and the point B is a line that is right angular to saidconstruction line, joining it at D, and serving to define the base ofthe gorge. The point E on line B-D is distanced lth breast measure fromA, or it may be otherwise suitably distanced, since this point E marksthe front shoulder point of the gorge. The reason that E is the shoulderpoint is because it fixes the width of the top of back desired; F thenbecomes the gorge and lapel line.

The point E on line D-B is distanccd 1%, more or less, from point F, togauge the form of the lapel.

Between A and G on the sweep line A-- *2 1Ard of breast measure. Todefine the lapel the square is placed with its angle on F, arm on G andthen I draw forward lapel line 1 and draw downward the dotted line to Hon construction line O-*L lith the square resting' on check .line BMH Cthe short line E#I can be drawn, this line I-I serving a check, as willhereinafter appear.

Now the gorge is shaped from point A through E and G as shown.

The distance represented between the points A and OO is one half thebreast measure. In the example illustrated, assuming the breast measureto be 38 and the corresponding height of the model being 5 5, then ithappens that the number of unit inches in the breast measure equal thenumbery of inches additional to the number of feet in the heightmeasure, and this relation holds good with other breast and heightmeasures.

The line connecting A and *4L I will now designate centre line 2. If thesquare be now placed on centre line 2, with its short arm pointingtoward A and its long arm resting on O, a construction Aline or breastline 1 can be drawn between O and GO. A to OO defines depth of scye, andC) to AA also defines depth of scye; and when 0 and OO are connected,the breast line 1 is thereby formed.

Breast line 1 can be extended a short distance.

Remembering that the line AA from O is a duplication of the line Af-O0,a tcp height line is drawn forward at right angles from AA and connectswith the front height line that extends between A and *3.

The line BB, parallel with the line AA that connects with line BC is acheck line extending to CC, and corresponds to the check line BC.

In order to locate breast line 2, measure and connect *1 and "l byapplying the breast measure, plus 2%.

Vilith the long arm of square resting on breast line 2 and *1, the shortarm on BB,

I mark lforward lo DD, the line BB, DD thus formed being a duplicate ofline Bl). Now it will be found that the line AA ISIC duplicates the lineAIE. The distance between FF and EE on the line BB DD corresponds withthe distance between BF on line BD.

Perpendicular to line 0*2 I draw the short line II, EE. this short linecorresponding with the line It will be hotel that these short lines II,EE, and EI, although corresponding in their respective placements andfunctions, have been produced by different means.

The portion of breast line Zibetween DI), HH corresponds with theportion of the construction line between D and II.

The duplicate lapel line can now be drawn by placing the angle of thesuuan, on FF and resting its arm on IIII, indicated by a` dotted line,and then squaring forward the lapel line 2, shaping gorr'e il from AAthrough .CF1 and GG, to correspond with gorge 1 IVith tape held in theleft hand, using *l as a pivot, the tape is swept forward from AA to *"1thereby forming the baci: incline sweep, which corresponds to the frontincline sweep. The sweep portion AA, GG is a duplicate of the sweepportion To locate the front of scye I divide the breast measure, which,in the present eX- ample is 19 inches, into two equal measures of 91,@inches, then I deduct 2 inches from the front of scye and add 2 inches'to the blade. The front of scye measure is now 71/2 inches, and theblade measure is 111/3 inches. One quarter inch is now added to front ofscye, from J to K; otherwise, in the make up the scye would lose oneseam or quarter inch, and the blade would gain the same. The usualallowancev for malte up has already been provided for in the drafting.

The distance between J and L is one fourth of breast measure, with 1/inch added. To define the width of arm scye I now square vup from theconstruction line at both K and L.

The point M from K is onesixth of breast measure. To locate the backshoulder point N, I connect M and EE, intersecting line L. Now, for thefront shoulder seam I connect N with E, then measure front shoulder seamfrom E to N to correspond with back shoulder seam from EE to N; shapeshoulders and front of scye.

The point 0 on construction line is S from 0. With square resting on Mand 0: note where it crosses line L, finding P', to locate the top ofside seam.

In producing the body part of the coat, from AA, I mark down on centreline 1, then measure 17 for waist, 24%, for seat,

goo

and 301/2 for length, then square these measures forward.

Then from AA I draw a line through 0, extending that line to Q, at waistline, then square down from Q, through R to S at bottom of back. From AAI shape back seam as shown on draft through to Q.

The distance from the point T from L on construction line is /di. Squaredown to waist line.

To have uniform width of back I measure from T to 0 and apply the samemeasure from S to U at bottom of back, and then connect from U to T atwaist. Then I shape back of scye from N to P, and allowA 14, for seam,as shown, forward of P; thence shaping side seam of back through V to Uto bottom.

With short arm of square resting on construction line, ata point 3XLforward of *1, I square down from seat line IV to bottom of front. Alsosquare down from *2 to bottom of coat.

With the seat measure 191/2, or 3/4 more than breast measure, the figureand attitude both being normal, I measure on the seat line from centreline 1 to R and add 3/4 theretothat heilig the difference between thebreast and seat measures, and apply that amount from V to X on the seatline.

The waist measure, here represented as 17, or 2 less than breastmeasure, allowing for seams, is now shaped from the back side seam at P,through X and Y, giving the effect desired.

Using P as a pivot, I sweep from U at bottom of back to Y at bottom offore part. IV ith the tape on A, nape of neck, I carry it across draftto S at bottom of back, then apply that measurement from AA to IV atbottom of fore part, and connect Y and IV, to shape the bottom of draft.

F or the button stand I add 2, more or less from *2 forward, then squareto bottom and shape front.

To crease the lapel I advance from point E ll/i and draw a lineconnecting with top button.

In delineating the pocket I square down from I( 2/grd of sleeve length,measure up from bottom and divide the pocket width half and half of scyeline.

To produce the under arm cut I measure 3/4 forward on construction linefrom to Z, measure from Z to 0, apply from waist line at Q, forward, andconnect with Z, then shapingthe arm seam as shown. The under arm seamwill then follow any attitude the draft may assume. f

On breast line 2 I add 2 from *i square forward, and shape lapel tocorrespond with the front draft.

The top balance sweep, shown by a dotted line, is found by using *3 as apivot and forming an arc from A to AA, this sweep connecting the twonapes, and proving the accuracy of the draft by the double system.

Variations within the spirit and scope of my invention are equallycomprehended by the foregoing disclosure.

I claim:

The method of obtaining a pattern for a coat consisting in taking thecircumferential body measurement of the wearer across the breast andunder thearm pit, laying olf one-half of said measurement in a straightline upon a sheet forming a construction base line, using theconstruction line as a base and erecting thereon an isoscelesconstruction triangle the sides of which are equal in length to thelength of the construction base line and with the apex of one of thebase angles thereof coincident with one end of the construction line,the apex of the other base angle of the construction triangle lying uponthe construction base line at a point between the ends thereof, erectinga perpendicular line from the end of the construction base line which iscoincident with the apex of the base angie of the construction triangle,said perpendicular line being equal in vertical height to the horizontallength of the construction base line, locating a point upon the baseconstruction line midway between the ends thereof, laying off a rightangle with the said midway point upon the base construction line and theupper end of the perpendicular line at the end thereof as the ends ofthe side lines of the said right angle, using the midway point upon thebase construction line as a center and with a radius equal to thedistance between said point and the apex of said angle, striking an arcwhich intersects the perpendicular line at the edge of the nape and thenlaying olf corresponding nape and gorge lines at the opposite ends ofsaid arc.

Executed this 16th day of March, 1926,

JOHN H. SPALDING.

